HELIANTHUS BUST DARTS
THE BACKSTORY
In Summer 2023 I released Helianthus, a classic summer tank. My original version featured fun and summery stripes and I also made two versions in solid colors.
Then, in Spring 2024 I released Sunshine Tee, my first ever pattern with bust darts! I wanted to take what I learned from this design to go back and add bust darts to Helianthus, but it turned out that the striping pattern meant the smallest bust dart would have to be about 3” (7.5 cm) long which is too long for a smallest size of bust dart.
So, here I’ll share with you numbers that were calculated to add bust darts to Helianthus, but they work only with the solid version. If you are knitting yourself a solid version and want to add bust darts, use the instructions below 😊
NOTE: The following instructions have been professionally tech edited, but not test knitted. They use the same concept as the Sunshine Tee bust darts, which were test knitted.
THE INSTRUCTIONS
Determine if you need bust darts
If you regularly knit garments based on your Full Bust measurement without bust darts and you are happy with their fit, choose your size as you regularly would and omit the bust darts. Otherwise, I recommend choosing a size based on your Upper Chest measurement, which is the circumference of your chest measured just below your armpits. Then, measure the distance from the top of your shoulder to under your bust both in the front and the back. Based on the difference between these two numbers, do the following:
• If the difference is less than 1.75" / 4 cm omit bust shaping.
• If the difference is greater than 1.75" / 4 cm AND less than 3” / 7.5 cm, work Cup 1 bust shaping.
• If the difference is greater than 3" / 7.5 cm work Cup 2 bust shaping.
DETERMINE PLACEMENT
First, calculate how long to work the body until it will hit the fullest point of your bust, as follows:
• Measure the distance from the top of your shoulder to the fullest point of your bust.
• Subtract that number from the total length measurement in the schematic, or your personal desired total length.
Work the body to your calculated length, then follow the instructions below.
BUST DARTS
German Short Rows are now worked to shape the bust darts. Turn after each row, as directed. Always work the st immediately after the DS tightly, keeping tension on the DS.
TIP: You can mark the most recent DS on each side with a stitch marker to assist you in locating it easily, especially if you are new to German Short Rows.
Turn to start the first set up row on the WS, immediately after the BOR marker.
Set Up Row (WS): Mds, p {101, 115, 129}[143, 157, 171, 185]{199, 213, 227} sts, turn.
CUP 1 ONLY (Adds 1.75” / 4 cm):
Rep Short Row 1 – Short Row 2 a total of {6, 1, 4}[6, 8, 2, 4]{7, 2, 5} times:
Short Row 1 (RS): Mds, k to {2, 2, 3}[4, 5, 5, 6]{7, 7, 8} sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 2 (WS): Mds, p to {2, 2, 3}[4, 5, 5, 6]{7, 7, 8} sts before DS, turn.
Rep Short Row 3 – Short Row 4 a total of {2, 7, 4}[2, 0, 6, 4]{1, 6, 3} times:
Short Row 3: Mds, k to {3, 3, 4}[5, 0, 6, 7]{8, 8, 9} sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 4: Mds, p to {3, 3, 4}[5, 0, 6, 7]{8, 8, 9} sts before DS, turn.
CUP 2 ONLY (Adds 3” / 7.5 cm):
Rep Short Row 1 – Short Row 2 a total of {10, 5, 14}[8, 2, 10, 4]{13, 8, 3} times:
Short Row 1 (RS): Mds, k to {1, 1, 2}[2, 2, 3, 3]{4, 4, 4} sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 2 (WS): Mds, p to {1, 1, 2}[2, 2, 3, 3]{4, 4, 4} sts before DS, turn.
Rep Short Row 3 – Short Row 4 a total of {4, 9, 0}[6, 12, 4, 10] {1, 6, 11} times:
Short Row 3: Mds, k to {2, 2, 0}[3, 3, 4, 4]{5, 5, 5} sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 4: Mds, p to {2, 2, 0}[3, 3, 4, 4]{5, 5, 5} sts before DS, turn.
RESUME ALL:
Next Row: Mds, k to BOR, working all DS as a single st when encountered.
Resume working in the rnd. Work all remaining DS as a single st when encountered.
Resume body instructions.
